Life on Bau

IMG_0257 Why, yes, that is the killing stone. :-)

Well, one of them anyway. The other one is in the Methodist church of course.

My people were cannibals, if you didn’t know. Really good ones, too. ;-)

My great-great grandfather, Luke Senigasau, was 9 years old when Seru Epenisa Cakobau converted to Christianity, much to the delight of the missionaries that weren’t eaten. The previous ones, of course, were.

The year was 1854, and up until that point cannibalism was all the rage.

To be fair to the cannibals, they didn’t just love eating people; there was a reason. One of those is effective political campaigning. Imagine, if you will, a commercial staring Samuel L. Jackson, “Fijians. They’ll ******* eat you!” And then there would be a soft, woman’s voice over, “Brought to you by the Bureau of Fijian Warfare and Conquering.”

IMG_0250Anyway, Bau is great. There are no roads and no cars. There are no dogs, but today I saw two cats. Oh, and there is the cutest family of baby ducks living under the other house on our property.

It’s been raining a lot lately. Or at least while I’ve been here.

There are a lot of important traditions on Bau. One that I think you’ll find odd is that no one wears hats or anything over the shoulder. Now, in the chief’s area of any village, this would also be the case. However, Bau is the chiefly island. As soon as I arrived, someone quickly offered to carry my backpack for me. Also, people who visit will usually dress up for the occasion. Even the carpenter I had over today mentioned he always changes into his best sulu when going to Bau.

IMG_0249 In the center of Bau is the largest tree you’ll ever see. Now, I’ve been to the giant sequoia forest and have seen the giants there, but this has a much more foreboding presence.

I’m sure there’s a good story that goes along with it. I’ll have to find out.

Anyway, what you don’t see is to the left, just outside of this photo’s frame, there was practicing Bau’s rugby team. The actually had a club game scheduled for today. I was planning on going to cheer for my island team, and a cousin that I had playing. However, the rain cancelled all club games today.

IMG_0127Coming and going to Bau is fun. It’s a boat ride that takes maybe 5 minutes. There is a landing where buses and taxis regularly go, and then there are boats that regularly go back and forth. There’s no schedule for the boats, but usually it’s not a problem to as boats come and go quite regularly. It costs $7 for the boat to go one way. It seems as though that if the boat is full, then everyone just pays $2.

Oh, and they have $2 and $1 coins here — something I wish America did. And no pennies. Many other countries don’t have pennies. (Go here for a delightful explanation on the topic —

Anyway, ya … Bau. It’s great. :-)

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